Last day in Paris

We woke up to another lovely morning for our last day in Paris. The sun rises after 7am but sets later too. We took our first metro ride today to the Opera Garnier which can be visited on a self-guided tour. The Opera building put the "O" in opulent. It was over the top gorgeous. We took lots of photos but the ones of the Chagall ceiling did not come out well and the gift shop did not sell postcards of the ceiling. How odd. They did have Christmas ornaments and one is currently bubble wrapped and slipped into a shoe in our carry-on

According to the map we were not far from the Gallerie Vivienne. In the 1800s Paris built covered shopping streets and RT had wanted to visit one of them. We walked to the Bourse (the French stock exchange) then found the gallerie entrance with the help of a couple of young local women. One gallerie led to another and we wandered along looking in shop windows and checking out menus of small cafes. One shop could have been the French version of Pottery Barn and RT would have loved to take home one of their red chairs among other things. After the galleries we stopped for tea and coffee at Le Pain Quotidien. We had a fun waiter who gave us a menu to share with our local branch of this international chain.

Still walkiing south we passed through the garden of the Palais Royal and came out at the Comedie Francais across from the Hotel du Louvre. There was a fellow playing piano on the square and we listened for awhile. He was quite a showman and we really enjoyed his playing. TT talked to him after the performance and he explained how he loads the piano on a truck and brings it there to play.

Back on the Batobus we floated back to our stop then dropped off a few things in our apt. Out we went out again to get some food for our last dinner in Paris. We love this neighborhood with all the little shops for food along the narrow streets. After our dinner with a great baguette we packed and watched a movie--"French Kiss" on the DVD player. The cable box in our apartment had gone out for the last two days of our stay so we were glad to have a few DVDs available.

Now a soft rain is falling and we can hear it against the windows and on the roof. It such a lovely way to end our stay in Paris. Thanks for reading along with us.

R & T

Sunday in Paris

We slept late today and then hopped the Batobus to the stop at Notre Dame. What a beautiful fall morning. We crossed a couple of bridges and made our way to the Marais. We had not wandered these streets much although we have visited the Place des Vosges in the past. We had read that many stores were open here on Sundays and not Saturdays because it is historically the Jewish neighborhood. We found the memorial to the righteous who assisted Jews during the Nazi occupation of France; very moving.

We wandered more streets until we came to the rue de Rosiers and the Sacha Finkelsztajn boutique where TT bought some cookies. Across the street RT found a shop that sold beautiful soaps and lotions made from Dead Sea minerals. There were lots of families out and it seemed rather festive. We walked further to the Place des Vosges which must be the most beautiful square in Paris. We sat on a bench enjoying the trees and sun and watched children playing. One little girl and her mother walked by us and we played the usual 1-year-old games of waving and peek-a-boo, no French needed.

We wandered our way back to the river and took the Batobus to the Louvre stop. Crossing the river we wanted to visit the Musee d'Orsay if it wasn't too busy. Well no problem with overcrowding at the Orsay--it was closed due to a strike. We walked further to the Rodin Museum and paid only 1 Euro each to enter the garden as it seemed kind of late to do the whole museum. We had tea and hot chocolate in the garden along with a few macarons. We enjoyed this garden cafe a few years ago on a 90 degree day and it was just as pleasant on a late fall afternoon.

We walked home and purchased a few things for our dinner. After dinner we strolled over to the watch the lights sparkle on the Eiffel Tower which happens every evening on the hour.

Brr!

It was supposed to warm up to nearly 60 degrees and be clear today but it was really very cold and cloudy when we left the apartment. We were bundled up while on the Batobus and heading to Notre Dame. Turns out many hundreds of other people had the same idea. It is a beautiful cathedral but I had never seen it so crowded. After visiting the inside we had an early lunch at a little cafe on the street behind the Notre Dame. We think it is called Cafe Esmeralda and we remembered having hot chocolate there on a previous trip. There are lots of tourist shops and restaurants on this street but this cafe has pretty good food and professional staff.

We wandered purposefully across the left bank to find the Arenes de Lutece. This is a Roman arena that was discovered about 1870. It's off our usual tourist track and a bit of a trek but interesting. We also passed the Pantheon. The bummer of it was that the uphill walk further aggravated a tweak to RT's achillies that happened on the cobblestones in Prague.

Then we floated back down the Seine to the Louvre for an inside visit. Frankly I don't know why we keep trying to see this place. It is an unending maze (we got lost there in 1996 making an endless circle through the Napoleon apartments) and today was not much better. TT then suggested this time we choose one or two works we wanted to see and find those. We focused on sculpture and saw the Venus de Milo and Cupid and Psyche. Winged victory is RT's favorite work at the Louvre but we gave up on it today.

Found a lovely gift in the museum store and a couple of souvenirs on the Rue de Rivoli before returning to our neighborhood by Batobus. We picked up a baguette and fruit, already had cheese in the apartment for a quiet dinner. Tomorrow we may try the Musee d'Orsay or Rodan Museum, both easier to deal with than the Louvre.

Rick Don't Fail Us Now!

There is a Rick Steves Paris 2010 in the apartment and we used it and France magazine that we brought from home to plan a trip to the Chantilly Chateau on Friday. TT's knee has been bothering him (we both have a little arthritis) so we sprung for a cab to the Gare du Nord and from there it's about a 25 min train ride to Chantilly. Once there we look for the Tourist Office which Rick recommends as well as a shuttle to the Chateau. The friendly lady in the T.O. says there is no shuttle so we decide to walk through town to the Chateau. We have a very nice lunch at a bistro called Sylvia and see cute shops along the way. We take lots of photos of the grounds as we approach along side the huge stables. We walk further in the gardens and tour the chateau which has a beautiful two-story library. By now RT's back is starting to hurt. It's time to head back to the gare and we ask at the chateau entrance about a shuttle . . . RT ends up helping the young woman read the schedule and it seems there is no shuttle today for some reason. So we walk back to the gare on a path through the woods about 2 kilometers. We are hurtin' now. We finally end up at the gare and the kind SNCF gentleman directs us to an earlier train and voila we are back in Paris.

At the gare du Nord we take a taxi to Angelina on the rue de Rivoli for a "photography assignment". We thought about eating there but the wait looked long. So we went to the food court under the Louvre. We're tired and just want some dinner and to head back to the apt. We missed that there is a Paul cafe near the pyramid or would have eaten there--we ate at one in Prague and it was quite nice. Dinner at the Louvre was mediocre but we were too tired to care.

We came out of the Louvre and headed to the Batobus stop and after waiting awhile realized it was past 7pm and our brochure says the service stops at 7. We wait a little longer because we saw a Batobus on the other side of the river but finally decide to cross to the left bank and hope for a taxi at the Musee d'Orsay or we will walk home. Usually not a bad walk but we are sore and tired tonight. After we cross the bridge, there it is, the Batobus just at the Louvre stop. Sigh. We wait at the stand and a man ahead of us gets a taxi so we have hope. After a few more minutes a taxi comes! We are home shortly and it is worth every Euro.

Chantilly was lovely but I liked Vaux-le-Vicomte (which we visted four years ago)better. It was nice to get out of Paris for a day especially on a beautiful day that shows off the fall colors.

ET bookends

We started off today planning to take the Batobus to Notre Dame for an inside visit which we have not done for several years. It was such a beautiful morning and we saw the top of the Eiffel Tower peaking above the trees that we decided to walk over and see how long the lines were. Not bad so we decided to go to the top. The view was gorgeous. It was cold up there however but we are so glad we visited. We even picked out our apartment on the corner across the street from the red-roofed school.

When we came down we did finally take the Batobus after buying a 5-day pass. We really don't like traveling underground when Paris is so beautiful and we have the time for a leisurely visit. We were ready for lunch by the time we arrived at the Notre Dame stop so went to Au Lys d'Argent which we discovered with family four years ago. It was just as good as we remembered. We wandered the Ile St. Louis and across to the right bank completely forgetting we planned to visit Notre Dame. Oh well, perhaps another day.

We brought home cheese and fruit for dinner and some amazing cookies from La Cure Gourmand on the Ile St. Louis. The shop was so beautiful we could not resist. The almond cookies were especially good. After dinner we walked over to see the sparkling Eiffel Tower show and end our second day in Paris.

Smart apt.

TT figured out today that our apartment is the residential version of the smart car. Everything one needs without all that extra unnecessary space. Smartpartment!

We saw the top part of the Eiffel Tower sparkle tonight as we walked home from dinner. We'll have to check out the full-length sight another night.

First things first

The first thing we had to do today was laundry. Not what one usually thinks of for a first full day in Paris. We try to pack light so have begun to add a laundry morning and decided this would be it. The weather looked very cloudy so we thought if it rains we won't miss the touristing time.

As an aside, last night we wondered if we would keep the sofa bed out all the time or if it would be difficult to return to a sofa each morning. While TT was in the shower I put it away myself. This should be pretty easy all week. Four sofa cushions for the back and seat stay in place when unfolded.

Found a "laverie" listed in our Paris Perfect directory located on the rue Auguereau between the rue St. Dominique and the rue de Grenelle. Turns out it is across the street from the Hotel Londres Eiffel where we stayed in 2002. That was a little hotel room and the shower had no curtain but was about $100 a night at that time. That bath was bigger than the one in our apartment but the apartment overall is larger.

We loaded up 4 little washing machines, figured out the instructions and took turns walking in the neighborhood and watching the laundry. The clothes dryers were huge so we dumped all our clothes into 2 of them. After returning to the aparment with clean clothes and putting everything away we headed to find lunch.

RT remembered La Terasse across from the Ecole Militaire. If you visit Paris you can't miss it as it has red awnings and red plush seats inside. We were seated on the second floor with a nice view down the avenue (see photo). TT had a really good quiche and RT had perfectly grilled fresh salmon.

This place put the "P" in petite pied a terre

Our flight from Prague on Tuesday was delayed an hour but we finally made it to our little apartment near the Eiffel Tower. It is just as pretty as in the photos on the Paris Perfect website but the bathroom is actually smaller than we thought. I don't know how they even got photos of it for the website--we shot this one standing in the kitchen http://www.flipkey.com/palaisbourbon-condo-rentals/p89911/

We were met at the apartment by Kevin who turned out to have a French grandmother but actually grew up in a town near us. Small world. He showed us how everything works and gave us the notebook that is to guide us if we forget how to operate the burners or showers. Some things are not intuitive as they were in our Prague hotel. The apartment kitchen was well stocked with all the dishes and utensils we could need, lots of fluffy white towels and oodles of charm.

Last night we bought some basic groceries so we could have breakfast this morning. Soon we will be off to explore our neighborhood on our first day in Paris. The top photo is our view out the window this morning.

Josefov - Prague's Historic Jewish Quarter

Catching up from yesterday's adventures...

The main event was a remarkably preserved and carefully cared for section of Prague which represents Jewish life in the city over many centuries. The Jewish community is very small today, never recovering from the extraordinary evil of Nazi Germany. The Jews in Prague have endured everything from harsh repression to genocidal violence in Europe over the centuries, and yet still survive today.

A self-guided tour comprises several sites, including a functioning synagogue, an ancient graveyard, and preserved examples of beautiful art, documents and craftsmanship. Also included is a former synagogue that is a memorial for Jews in Prague who perished in the Holocaust. It's well worth the time, and both visually and historically impressive.

***

On a lighter note, the RT/TT Express made it's way to places where food and drink was served. Imagine that! The best lured us in with cookies, which has been known to work 100% of the time. Au Gourmand was like most places we like - simple and clean. We had "croques", which is French (in Prague still) for Le Grilled Cheese Sandwich. But the cookies were really good, and so we gave it two thumbs up.

Also on the menu was a drink at a neat little boat-hotel ("botel") on the river, where for very little money we enjoyed the riverside ambience and a little rest. The botel is located on the riverbank below the "Dancing building" a fun bit of architecture that was built in the 1990s.

Finally, a visit to the Church of St. Nicholas was a highlight. It's a small church on the old main square, but very tall, and filled with grand decoration (baroque?) including a huge crystal chandelier that was overwhelming for it's size. As with most of these type of sites, a few quiet minutes is all we needed.

Some other activities and a nice dinner later and it was time to pack for our flight to Paris the next day. We slept well and were banging on the door to breakfast until they opened at 7am. We were ready early and that made the journey less stressful and easier.

Lazy Sunday

We had planned to visit the Jewish sights today but after the hordes at the castle yesterday, RT just couldn't face crushing crowds like that. So tomorrow Jewish history in Prague, today we just walked in the Old Town. We headed up the pedestrian Rytirska along with Praguers and tourists but now there were more locals than on other days. RT stopped in crystal shops in search of an elusive bit of crystal jewelry that had been sold out at Prague castle (yay for MP's computer and the web to locate stores). We turned southeast and walked up Vaclavske namesti, Wenceslas Square, where the people turned out for the velvet revolution more than 20 years ago. From there back on the pedestrian street we came upon one of the Paul cafes, a French chain. They sell sandwiches and bakery treats so we had lunch and a sweet. TT had a rhubarb tart and RT a macaron. Not as good as real French macarons so should have waited until next week. The tea was just right however.

We continued to the art deco Municipal House (top photo) and while there bought tickets for a classical concert tonight. The building is beautiful and the concert is just over an hour long so should suit us just right.

We walked back toward our hotel on other picturesque streets. Saw the beautiful art deco Hotel Pariz and a gorgeous toy shop. Prague seems to be street after street of beautiful buidings in the Stare Mesto or Old Town. With only one day left we will try to squeeze a lot in. We could have used one more day for a trip outside of Prague to Pilzen or Karlstejn Castle.

Back to the Castle

The day started late. Apparently jet lag had not finished messing with us. The weather report promised cold and clear, so we wore heavier coats than yesterday when we wished we had them.

We took tram 22 back to the castle today since we had 2-day tickets. We came in from a different tram stop and this entrance looked a little like a mini-Versailles. People were already lined up for the changing of the guard which we decided to skip. We noticed the military guards had handsome uniforms and that some who were probably not working the ceremony had big knives on their belts. TT wondered if they actually got training in knife combat, or had just once appeared in a production of West Side Story in the past.

Inside the gates, we visited St. George's chapel and the old palace but everything was so crowded on a Saturday that it was difficult to see much. Fortunately one of the main sights was an arched ceiling in the palace so it could be viewed over the crowds. We noticed that as the castle was built over the years newer buildings were put up quite close to the cathedral and other buildings in the castle complex.

We also made a trip back to the castle gift shop where we had done some window shopping the day before.

We took a little different route down from the castle so we could visit the area between the castle and the Charles Bridge. Enjoyed a tasty late lunch at the Restaurant Pod Vezi and TT finally had his first Czech beer. TT had roast duck and RT had a panini and salad with really good balsamic. Would have bought a bottle of that if we could. We also indulged in our first strudel which was very good. The service was really good here and the waiter obliged when we asked if he would take our picture.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent window shopping and photographing the beautiful sights of the city, which include Hare Krishnas marching, some poor fool being given a bird's-eye-view of the city from a one-seater balloon tethered 200 feet in the air, and several shops selling absinthe.

Prazsky hrad

This morning after another good breakfast at the hotel we traveled by tram to Prazsky hrad or Prague Castle. We saw it lit up above the Charles Bridge as we were driven to our hotel on Wednesday night and were looking forward to visiting. We first visited one of the gardens next to the former president's home. Some of the trees were turning and gardeners were planting flowers in bloom so it was very pretty. After that we bought our tickets choosing 4 major sites in the castle complex. First we visited St. Vitus' Cathedral which has some beautiful stained glass including some from the early 20th century by the Czech artist Alfons Mucha. Don't think we'll get to his museum this week so were glad to see these windows. Construction of the Cathedral was only completed in 1929. It was quite crowded with lots of tour groups in German, Spanish and Italian but we just waited while some of them went by. Individual tourists like us seemed much fewer.

After the cathedral we wandered through the castle area toward Golden Lane. This is a street of small houses that have served as shops and residences over the centuries. Kafka lived in one of them for a couple of years. Before we got there we came upon a couple of very nice gift shops filled with crystal and Czech handcrafts. We spent some time checking out possible gifts and then it was time for lunch. A little place at the start of Golden Lane offered hot pannini and tea which was perfect on this cold day. Exploring Golden Lane we bought a tiny plate for the kitchen wall to go along with others collected over the years from Italy, France and Las Vegas.

Our castle ticket is good for two days so we decided to come back tomorow and wandered down the hill back to the Charles Bridge. We passed a vineyard, the Belgian and Polish embassies, and many elegant buildings. Starting to feel cold and needing a rest we spotted a Starbucks on Malostranske square. RT had a hot chocolate and TT a coffee with lots of cream which is not usually served with coffee here. From here it was an easy stroll to the Charles bridge except for stops to admire the beautiful garnet and amber jewelry.

Strolling through the Stare Mesto, our neighborhood, we passed many tempting restaurants as we made our way back to our hotel. After resting a bit we decided to have dinner at Restaurant Rainer Maria Rilke. It had not occurred to us that we might need reservations and we were fortunate to get the last table. The waiter was great and the food very good. TT had chicken stuffed with salmon but RT went for straight salmon from Norway. We had passed a placed called Choco Cafe earlier in the afternoon but now we were too full. So back to the Hotel Unitas to blog and plan our day for tomorrow.

Can't resist sharing another cobblestone shot, this time from the Castle.

Cobblestones

Cobblestones--not good for high heels, not good for old people or small children, and many stones are MIA. Prague is a beautiful city and from the architecture we really felt we were in a central European capital. However, along with all that charm comes the threat of danger. Watch your step or you could end up spending part of your vacation in the hospital. Missing cobbles are part of the city's charm but RT nearly tripped over the missing one in this photo. And sadly there is a lot of grafitti which detracts from the Baroque buildings.

After a full 8 hours sleep we enjoyed the hotel's buffet breakfast this morning then walked to the Charles Bridge (Karlov Most). Great views of the city on both sides of the river. From the bridge we walked back to the east bank and the Stare Mesto or old city which is also where we are staying. We wandered through the small streets and discovered that whether large or small, the cobblestones are uneven and many are missing. Both the streets and sidewalks are cobbled so there is no escaping them. We saw the astronomical clock mark the hour along with dozens of other tourists (can't imagine what the crowds are like in summer).

When it came to meals we avoided TGI Fridays and Subway in favor of local restaurants. For lunch we ate at a large beer garden called U Vejvoju(no beer for TT yet even though the Czech Republic is the beer capital of the world) most of the other diners were Czech speaking. Later in the afternoon we found the perfect spot for a rest and some "dezerty". Really, that's the Czech word for dessert. We haven't gone too native when it comes to restaurants yet. We need to see the English menu so have visited those with menu translations. Last night's dinner at Palatina in the Hotel Leonardo was very good.

For those of you reading this in Cedar Rapids, TT also tasted his first Kolac. We had a good first day and are looking forward to visiting the cathedral and castle up on the hill and St. Nicholas church among others.

Countdown

TT and I are packed and relaxing watching the Bears and Lions on MNF. Tomorrow at noon the airport transfer will take us to the airport for our flight to London and transfer to Prague. All on British Airways paid for with miles. It was our first time booking with miles and we ended up with flights in October rather than in September, our prferred month to travel. We have a 5 and a 1/2 hour layover at Heathrow and two friends assure me I'll have plenty of shopping to occupy my time.

Why the name for this blog? Prague and Blague are obvious but Frague? I'm afraid as much as I love Paris and France I just could not resist the temptation to name our Paris sojourn.

So we'll keep you posted on our travels for the next two weeks.

RT